Cycle Sound Mounting?

DJnRF

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I have a Cycle Sound on my motor, and love my music when I ride. Unfortunately, my radio
has quit on me. Now, does anyone have a good copy of the instructions on how it is mounted
the the fairing? The online copy is fuzzy to try to read. Of course, it doesn't help the my eyes
are not what they used to be. Even the print is too small for me, and if I enlarge it the print
gets even worse to read.

Dave.
 

AVetterXS

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Heya DJnRF. I think I have a better copy of the mounting instructions. I have to find them. There really isn't much holding those things on, there are usually a couple of brackets on each speaker that hold the unit to the windshield. Then the wires.

There is some good data in this post: http://www.vetterowners.com/threads/cycle-sound-question.252/

Welcome to the forum, post some pics of your Cycle Sound unit and bike, would love to see it. If you need any other information please ask.

For future reference, start a new thread, I think that people see the new thread and respond quicker. I am moving this for you as a new thread in this tech topic forum.
 
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DJnRF

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I have gone though this thread several times, and only find how to open the unit. I find no good diagram/instructions/manual for removal from the fairing. Most indications here, and other places only mention brackets of some type.
Mostly L brackets. The is also some reference in some places as to where the brackets attach. HOWEVER, none fit
with what I am finding on mine. I do have the later model of the Cycle Sound enclosure wtih the Laminar antenna.
It was mounted in my 81 Interstate when it was purchased. Instead of brackets it appears there are two bolts that
must be removed from the inside through the speaker holes. The 4" speakers have soldered on wires, and to unplug
those must, probably, be done after the unit is opened. The only manual I find online is one that is such a poor copy,
with contrast of leters, and diagrams so weak, plus being so blurred that I am completely unable to read it of follow
any of the diagrams. Does anyone have any good diagrams or the manual?

I am a federally licensed 1st Class communications and electronics technician so I am not concerned with what I may
have to do inside with wiring and such, but I never like to tear into any device or component without having proper
information and data and/or diagrams and schematics.
 

AVetterXS

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I am relieved I don't have a habit, and I have a sickness. Now, I feel much better knowing that someday, in my lifetime, there will be a cure.

Then again, maybe I don't want to be cured.....
 
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DJnRF

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Heya DJnRF. I think I have a better copy of the mounting instructions. I have to find them. There really isn't much holding those things on, there are usually a couple of brackets on each speaker that hold the unit to the windshield. Then the wires.

There is some good data in this post: http://www.vetterowners.com/threads/cycle-sound-question.252/

Welcome to the forum, post some pics of your Cycle Sound unit and bike, would love to see it. If you need any other information please ask.

For future reference, start a new thread, I think that people see the new thread and respond quicker. I am moving this for you as a new thread in this tech topic forum.

Well, with nothing better to do today I decided to brave the cold and get into the task of figuing out my Cycle Sound enclosure. First thing I found after removing the speakers was that there are two bolts that hold the unit to the fairing. I had to remove the turn signals to get at the nut. The bolts are 1" 5/16ths bolts with a washer on the back of the enclosure, and a larger one on the inside of the fairing behind the turn signals. The installation appears to have been done by a professional to get the precision of measurements, spacing, and perfect alignment of the holes. I also suspect this to be true due to the wiring from the machine to the enclosure. However, at that point things get bad.

A person that was not so precise managed to cobble up everything inside. Extensions on all of the wires for power, ground speakers, and extra control wires total about 40 feet too long. (I am not joking) A very carefully wrapped bundle of the speaker wires is so thick that I cannot even wrap my hand around it. My thumb and middle finger are still two and a half inches apart, and the bundle is just over seven inches long. The power lead from the ceramic radio filter block is three feet long. The ground wire is seven feet in length. And, those are just two of that set. The radio wires are both eleven feet in length. The only wires that were not lengthened are the speaker wire group. All were soldered and taped at every point of joining.

In the process of that job the person also tore up the Laminar antenna. It was broken, and stretched way out of place, which didn't do the speaker conductor wire much good. There was even a knot tangle in that wire. I am still trying to get the knot untied, but with my eyes it is a real chore. Thank heavens for a good magnifier light and a mag-headset.

As to the problem with the radio, for me, that was easy. The lousy wiring job shorted. This had been an intermittent problem for some time before it 'welded' itself into a permanent short. That blew the fuses. However, in the process of it being an intermittent short for so long it also burned a resistor, and shorted a transisitor. It took some tracing to find the problem, but very fast for me to repair that part. I now have the radio sitting on the bench playing some good music. One speaker had a problem, so I substituted a couple of Motorola 4 ohm weatherproof speakers. With my hearing having been damaged by gunfire, I wish I had two Motorola Power Voice speakers. I would always put one in my cars so I could hear with all the other noise I would get from the 2-way radio traffic. I do have a schematic of that speaker so I might just have to buld one. I always loved how the whole circuit would fit in those housings. Small, but a true 20 watt output. Those things were as loud as my siren! That 20 watt supply gave me a 100 watt audio. Now, even the faceplate light on the radio works. It didn't before. All that remains is to clean up this enclosure and get it
mounted again. I wish I did have a radio cover on it though. There isn't one on this. I will take a couple of pics when I get it finished.

If you can find your info on this to get me a good copy I still want it.

Now, back to work.
Dave.
 

DJnRF

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DJnRF,
I went ahead and scanned an original manual for you out of a fresh new Cycle Sound.
Click on the attachment below.
I didn't see this post until I got done with mine a bit ago. I thank you. This one is more
readable for me. Due to my eyes much of what I try to read is somewhat blurry unless it
is an actual print. Even then some print is a bit faint for me to see well.

I will usually take a document I scan in, then increase the contrast, make darker print,
and sharpen the print in one of my photo programs. Almost every picture I get off the
Internet gets the same treatment. One of the best photo programs I have ever seen was
a cheap one put out for small businesses, and then also made into a home version. I still
have that program, but can't use it on this PC as the program was made as a 16 bit application,
and these newer Windows OS's are 64 bit. I can use it on my spare PC's as I still have WinXp
on them, and it still works with 32 bit. That program is one of the easiest I have ever seen, and
still does most all of what the $500 programs do.

I am a federally licensed 1st class communications and electronics tech, but I am not a
programmer. I wish I were so I could redesign that particular Adobe program to work as
a 32, and 64 bit application. I would trash all but one of the others if I coud get that one again.

By the way, I see where some claim you probably have some disease. Don't feel alone. Recently
doctors diagnosed me with a new one. Actually, they suspect that it has been around for a long
time, but I was the first in which they actually diagnosed it and gave it a name.
It is called the A.S.S. Syndrome.
(Alzheimmers, Senility, Stupidity)

I sincerely hope you don't have this diesase. lol

Dave.
 

brianinpa

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I can understand the need to have some extra length of wire so the stereo pod can be moved away from the mounting location without having to cut the wires ( I am not a big fan of bullet connector myself ) but the extra length that you mention is appalling. :eek:
 
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DJnRF

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I can understand the need to have some extra length of wire so the stereo pod can be moved away from the mounting location without having to cut the wires ( I am not a big fan of bullet connector myself ) but the extra length that you mention is appalling. :eek:
Hi Brian, I agree with the use of bullet connectors, and some extra length wire as well. Bullet connectors can
be a handy method, but exposed to an atmosphere that has moisture and temperature extremes they tend to
corrode. That is especially bad if used on such connections as power and speakers. I just cannot understand
why anyone would have used so much wire. What were they thinking? Did they put this together on their
kitchen table while hooked to the motorcycle out in the garage??? I believe they changed the radio themselves.
The enclosure probably had a radio installed by the person who had originally mounted it, and decided on this
one instead. There were definitely two different people to have done this job. One knew what he was doing, and
then this other one.

Dave.
 

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DJnRF, you should have seen the manual before I adjusted the levels. It was bad, even know the unit was new it still had several years on it and faded quiet a bit. I even cleaned page creases and remove the bleed through from the scanner light. Looks clean, now I just need to program a database to keep all these docs in. I have been designing one for a bit now, I just don't have the time I wish I did to do all my side projects.

As for the wires, I totally understand. I have roughly 30 or so used Cycle Sound and Vetter Sound units. I have seen some crazy stuff when I opened these units up. I mean crazy, I have found, spiders, toys, pencils, pens, I even found somebody used a pen cap as a wire nut. I have also seen the excessive amount of wire crammed into the unit. I opened one a while back somebody filled with expandable foam. Pretty much ruined.

The antenna can be repaired, however it will be ugly. You know the principle on how that thing works being in communications. I always found the externals worked way better then then internal, however your housing doesn't have the external hole. BUT, I think it has the mount surface, it may just not be drilled, I cant remember all these things, though I try.

Myself I find to be so anal, that I solder and shrike tube everything, followed by pretty petite wire tires.

Madness! o_O :confused:
 
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DJnRF

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DJnRF, you should have seen the manual before I adjusted the levels. It was bad, even know the unit was new it still had several years on it and faded quiet a bit. I even cleaned page creases and remove the bleed through from the scanner light. Looks clean, now I just need to program a database to keep all these docs in. I have been designing one for a bit now, I just don't have the time I wish I did to do all my side projects.

As for the wires, I totally understand. I have roughly 30 or so used Cycle Sound and Vetter Sound units. I have seen some crazy stuff when I opened these units up. I mean crazy, I have found, spiders, toys, pencils, pens, I even found somebody used a pen cap as a wire nut. I have also seen the excessive amount of wire crammed into the unit. I opened one a while back somebody filled with expandable foam. Pretty much ruined.

The antenna can be repaired, however it will be ugly. You know the principle on how that thing works being in communications. I always found the externals worked way better then then internal, however your housing doesn't have the external hole. BUT, I think it has the mount surface, it may just not be drilled, I cant remember all these things, though I try.

Myself I find to be so anal, that I solder and shrike tube everything, followed by pretty petite wire tires.

Madness! o_O :confused:
Well, the copy you sent is a whole bunch better than what I had gotten. I can even read yours without having to
use a photo program to clean it up and sharpen lettering. You obviously did a good job on an old paper manual.

Having a site in which such documents are saved to help people is a good idea. The only site, relating to cycle
things, is one whee there are a bunch of manuals for the Honda Clarion radios. There are quite a few manuals
there, actually.

Well, the antenna is working, but I am sure that it is only good for strong signals. I am getting signals fairly
well here, but how it would do in actual service on the motor, I am not sure. I may hook it all up in the
enclosure, throw it on the seat of my truck and take it for a ride. (It would be nice to listen to sounds in my
truck as it doesn't have a radio. Hmmm, wonder if there is a radio man around who would install one? lol)

Now, about that mount on the enclosure for an external antenna. NOPE. There isn't one on the Cycle Sound
enclosure. Specifically made for the Laminar antenna, the mould did not use that feature on this. I do,
however, have the original Honda antenna mounted on the rear. I need to get a replacement as the top
half is missing. It might still work if I can find where the cable ends. Since it is original to the motor, I am
sure that the enclosure was used for a radio from either the dealer, or Honda when new. I find no evidence
that the Clarion system was ever before mounted on the motor. I did get a Clarion type I radio, which only
has the AM/FM radio, and the intercom, but it is missing the 'Booster". I have ordered what I think is the
right unit from a guy. Everyone always confuses those parts as to be the Power Amplifier from the type II.
The type II radio system is completely different and can have the AM/FM radio, cassette, CB radio, and
the Intercom. It also must have a multichanger box for all these to plug into. Different years required
different mountings for all the components. The type I is much easier, and gives all I want without using
up some of my fairing storage compartments. It just has the one compartment used just for the radio and
contol unit. The booster is mounted on the fairing behind the guages.

I, too, believe in soldering wires. I don't always use the heat shrink tubing. With some wires the tape is
good enough, and allows much easier changes.

When I get the unit cleaned up and looking the way it should (it is pretty cruddy right now) I will take
some pics to post here. I will let you know when I do.

Thanks again,
Dave.
 
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brianinpa

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Looking forward to seeing the photos. I did spray the inside of my housing with Boom Mat. It helped dampen quiet a bit. Next time I build one I am gonna put some FatMat (Dyanmat Rippoff) stuff in too.

Boom Mat Link
FatMat Link
This makes me think I may have overlooked something on my Rooster! Getting the FatMat in would not be fun, but that boom mat would work.
 

AVetterXS

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It really helped a ton. I masked and sprayed about 3 coats, and it is much more solid. When you knock on a non coated unit it rings and when you knock on a coated unit it thumps. Good to do. I think the Cycle Sound has a bit more room then yours for the map. They spray will be perfect for you.
 

DJnRF

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had been until it quit. Repair of the radio was easy for me. However, whoever
had installed it in the enclosure did a miserable job. In addition to a good
cleaning, I also had to cut out quite a few feet of excess wire. It appears that
the original radio in the enclosure was not enough radio for the person so he
bought one from Radio Shack, and installed that one. He just used the wires that
were already there, then installed the radio along with all the wires he had, plus
all that came with the nre radio.

I am not sure which fairing I have, but there are the holes that have been predrilled
for mounting the enclosure. The Cycle Sound enclosure bolts up directly to the
fairing beneath the windshield. The bolts for mounting are directly behind the
speakers, so they are easy to get to. The turn signal lenses must be removed to get
at the nut and washer from the bolts. It sure is simple enough.

I am not sure that, even after fixing it, that I will do much better around here
with the Laminar antenna. Already while testing the radio in the enclosure my
cat walked past the unit and a bunch of static from loss of signal occured. Oh
well, I do have a mounted antenna on my machine.

I have attached several pictures of the unit after completion of the repairs.

Dave. View attachment 355 View attachment 355 View attachment 356 View attachment 356 View attachment 358 View attachment 359 View attachment 360 View attachment 361 View attachment 362 View attachment 355 View attachment 356 View attachment 357 View attachment 358 View attachment 359 View attachment 360 View attachment 361 View attachment 362
 

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AVetterXS

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No wonder I was having a hard time figuring out what was going on. Some of the things you were telling me about the mounting just didn't mesh with what I had stuck in my head. The images helped! All this time I was thinking Windjammer and didn't realize you had a Honda. All in all nice job! I love those Radio Shack cassette decks. I have a couple of them.

Cycle Sound For Certain Hondas
1980 to 1983 Honda GL1100 Interstate
1981 and 1982 Honda GL500 Interstate
1983 Honda GL650 Interstate
1980 to 1982 Hondaline Fairing CB750 Custom and CB900 Custom
1983 Hondaline Fairing CB1000 Custom
 

DJnRF

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Well, I do like the way this Cycle Sound enclosure mounts. All the info I had been
getting was relative to the Windjammer, and most was refering to the Vetter
enclosure.

Being used to so many different electronic devices, and other major, and critical
electrical work I always like to see a good diagram, or better yet, a full schematic
of what I will be working with. In the high power electical field I have seen men
die because they did not have this information. I always draw or write up just
what I am working with, and what I have done just in case something happens
to me and someone else must take over. Even in tearing into my 1100 I do
this.

I always tend to tear out my hair when getting something someone else has
started and I have to straighten out later. In this case it wasn't so bad. I could
have even done a better job if I were not possibly going to change it again.

I have a couple of other radios I am working with. A Honda Clarion Type I
that I just got the Booster for to use on any repair and setup. I have the
empty hole where it mounts at the moment. I also have a Clarion AM/FM
and CB radio that if it will work ok I may put in the enclosure. I have even
considered putting in my UHF Mico system rado in the enclosure. The
control head would go there while the radio would go in the trunk.

If I use the Micor, I will have to change the alternator to a car alternator.
These motorcycle alternators do not have enough power to run such
a radio system. The range is excellent with them, but it takes a good
100 amp alternator to transmit and keep all the accessories working.

Dave.
 

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Judging by the pics that Terraplane Tom posted, are these brackets all that hold my sound box in? or are there also two on the back of the box that go to the fairing as well, like in the one that DJnRF posted? mine didn't have all of the foam stabilizer and sound deadeners in it, no trace of them ever being there either. also, mine didn't have the internal antenna, but a hole in the box for an external antenna that is on the right side running along the windshield. I didn't take the box off, my father in law did years ago when the radio quit working, and he doesn't remember now, and I have no idea myself. I'm assuming mine is the vetter box, that came with the fairing and the side boxes.