CycleSound Shells - Modern componets?

[Metal_Bob]

Hey,

Has anyone had any luck with installing modern head units (radios) with or without the need for an amp?

I have a CHEAP and weak (not loud) PYLE brand radio and amp (that fits in the right pocket) and some low priced 4" waterproof speakers (Polk Audio DB401 4-Inch Pair Coaxial
Speakers).

My problem is the setup never seemed very loud even after I installed the amp.

NOTE: MY full face helmet doesn't help much while riding, but even parked I had hoped the setup would be louder.

I tried different types and amounts of foam stuffed behind the speakers inside the CycleSound shell. I also tried different sizes for bass blockers to try to increase the highs and reduce the lows.

Other than an more expensive radio and/or amp how have others solved this issue? (I don't have any 80's radios and wanted something with 3.5 stereo/usb/or SDcard input.

P.S. I also tried installing the same speakers in the Vetter hard saddle bags (the amp has 4 outputs). Without proper sound deadening/packing/porting the experiment was a failure. It doesn't help that the speakers face down somewhat. (Installed on the front flat panels near the passenger's foot pegs).

- - - -

On a related topic, those that cut up their CycleSound shells to put in modern (no knobs) head units, how did you make the radio secure inside the shell after cutting out the larger square hole?

 

[brianinpa]

When I got my bike, the cycle sound pod was already cut for a modern (no knob) radio so no cutting was needed.

I installed a JVC KD-R610 which is a 50 watt system - and no amp. When installing the new unit, the sleeve had several tabs that I bent to lock the sleeve to the pod. In addition, I cut a piece of MDF the same dimension needed to act as a spacer between the bottom of the sleeve and the pod and screwed it into place. I don't use CD's just the USB drive, so no need to worry about vibrations making a CD skip.

Most times I ride with a 1/2 or 3/4 helmet (or none at all) and the only time I have a problem hearing the radio is when I am at speeds above 75 mph. I have often thought about an amp, but with just two 5" speakers in the pod, I'm not sure it is worth it. I have seen where a guy had some nice water proof speakers mounted under his trunk facing forward and thought that would help, but haven't had that too high on my list as of yet.

 

[Metal_Bob]

Well finding a modern 2stem at any price is a challenge. The low power (and cheap) pyle worked but was not very loud. Maybe I need a better amp...

 

[brianinpa]

How powerful is the stereo and maybe the speakers were the weak link.

 

[Metal_Bob]

I thinks its only 35 watts? Its a bargin (junk) radio as is the amp I could afford at that time...

These are the speakers:

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-4-...olk+Audio+DB401+4-Inch+Pair+Coaxial+Speakers)

 

[brianinpa]

I'm sure the resident radio guy will chime in sooner or later, but I would think those speaks should be enough. I once had Wally Worlds cheapest Dual stereo in my bike for a few months until I could save the money up to get a better one.

Now for my 1200 I think I am just going to get the better Dual Stereo as it is less attractive to thieves and I am not sure how any radio is going to sound in my Rooster.

 

[Terraplane Tom]

Here are some pictures of a Vetter Sound radio pod the came with the DIN opening already there.

 

[Terraplane Tom]

The way I found to solve the problem of listening to the radio was to install an ear phone jack on the side of my radio pod and one on the side of my helmet.

I then have a speaker cord to connect them.

 

[Kynan C.]

The Polk Audio DB401's are a great set of 4" speakers. They meet marine standards and have the proper specs for a tight enclosure. I have been doing lots and lots of research and here is a few things I have learned. Being a long time Audiophile myself and having a close friend that is a speaker engineer at Harman International I get some great tips.

My goal? Loud, clear, sound, with minimal components while maintaining a vintage look.

Just from my testing and research.

There are not many modern shaft style radios out there, and the ones I have seen are junk. I chose to do vintage decks (my personal obsession) and an amplifier.

I have played with lots of the Tripath Class-T amplifiers. Pyle, Boss, Lepai, they are pretty darn cool. They are small, don't get to hot, and have a decent amount of power, usually 20 watts or so. The biggest obstacle that I was running into with my test setup was the full frequency range was to much for the speaker enclosure. The speakers were clipping at higher volume.

So, I grabbed a 24 band rack mount EQ and ran the signal through that and tuned the speakers to match the specs of the enclosure. From there I was able to turn the speakers volume up and got minimal clipping. The new problem that came along is that the amp was topping out, so I needed a better amp if I wanted it real loud. I purchased a DSP and I have a couple of high power Nakamichi car amps and I am going to be doing some testing with. Now..... the amps are not a practical option for the fairing, due to power consumption and size, but are great for testing purposes.

I will let you guys know the results of my future testing. From there, I will need to either optimize efficiency in speakers or find a better Class T amp with more power.

I am currently playing with a MiniDSP and MiniAmp. You are able to tune everything via computer software. It's a bit techy and DIY, however I enjoy that stuff. You can read about the DSP stuff here.

MiniDPS http://www.minidsp.com/products/minidspkits/2-x-in-4-x-out
MiniAMP http://www.minidsp.com/products/minidspkits/miniamp

 

[Metal_Bob]

I have no idea how to tune custom amps/dsp but if you find something that works with the POLK speakers and our enclosures off the shelf let us know. I'd even be willing to mount the amp inside the trunk. Granted that's even more wires running in and out of my trunks...
Also if you have any specific suggestions for small amps that do fit in fairing besides the cheap marine grade pyle one let me know
I don't need the sound to be perfect, just louder

 

[Larry Fine]

May I suggest checking out the Alpine KTP-445U?

(Edited to correct model number)

Added: It's rated at 4 x 45 watts continuous, and bridgeable to 2 x 90 watts.

 

[VoodooRed_KZ1100_A-3]

I'm following this with interest. Adding a Cycle Sound to "Red" would be sweet. The head unit would have to be a "mech-less" type (no CD, USB/mp3 connect capability, touchbutton controls, detachable face) with a weather cover. I like the helmet jack install. Wouldn't mind seeing pics of that too... I'd do some mods on my full face too.

Happy Hollandaise!

Mark

 

[VoodooRed_KZ1100_A-3]

The way I found to solve the problem of listening to the radio was to install an ear phone jack on the side of my radio pod and one on the side of my helmet.
View attachment 265 View attachment 266
I then have a speaker cord to connect them.

I'd love to see how you got the speakers mounted in your helmet. Mine is a full-face too. I'm thinking about doing some surgery... mwahahaha....

Seasons Greetings!

Mark

 

[Terraplane Tom]

I'd love to see how you got the speakers mounted in your helmet. Mine is a full-face too. I'm thinking about doing some surgery... mwahahaha....

Seasons Greetings!

Mark

Mark, I took an old pair of headphones, disassembled them, took the speakers out, attached them inside my helmet with Velcro, then solder the speaker wires to an earphone jack I bought at Radio Shack and just tuck the wire under the padding.

 

[VoodooRed_KZ1100_A-3]

Thanks Tom!

That's kinda what I was thinking of doing. It would be worth getting a decent set of 'phones to dissect
for a project like this. After reading all about the Vetter comm set you have, and how the mic and speaker
install with velcro, I thought about doing something for my comm headset for ham radio like that...

Best regards!

Mark

 

[michael_pickell]

I'm removing the stock system, mounting a bracket for my Droid Razr Maxx to a blue tooth helmet headset.
This way I have my local station via iheart radio or pandora, when no reception like when I was out in the desert I can use mp3's.
Also the phone also acts as my GPS.

 

[81 CB750K]

Hey,

Has anyone had any luck with installing modern head units (radios) with or without the need for an amp?

I have a CHEAP and weak (not loud) PYLE brand radio and amp (that fits in the right pocket) and some low priced 4" waterproof speakers (Polk Audio DB401 4-Inch Pair Coaxial
Speakers).

My problem is the setup never seemed very loud even after I installed the amp.

NOTE: MY full face helmet doesn't help much while riding, but even parked I had hoped the setup would be louder.

I tried different types and amounts of foam stuffed behind the speakers inside the CycleSound shell. I also tried different sizes for bass blockers to try to increase the highs and reduce the lows.

Other than an more expensive radio and/or amp how have others solved this issue? (I don't have any 80's radios and wanted something with 3.5 stereo/usb/or SDcard input.

P.S. I also tried installing the same speakers in the Vetter hard saddle bags (the amp has 4 outputs). Without proper sound deadening/packing/porting the experiment was a failure. It doesn't help that the speakers face down somewhat. (Installed on the front flat panels near the passenger's foot pegs).

- - - -

On a related topic, those that cut up their CycleSound shells to put in modern (no knobs) head units, how did you make the radio secure inside the shell after cutting out the larger square hole?

I found a nice looking Modern radio with retro look on ebay, here is the URL for it. It even has the knobs like the old style radios, but plays the modern gear, CD, MP3.USB, SD card ect.. CD is hidden, cool looking. 4 channel, 40 watts per channel. I was thinking maybe you could combine both front and rear channels to make 80 watts, but I don't know about that. It is a nice thought, but I don't think it will work that way. Anyway, 40 should be enough. Maybe put two more speakers in the back.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Classic-Eur...tereo-Radio-/231656539420?hash=item35efce451c

 

[Larry Fine]

That retro head unit on eBay still requires a DIN (~2"x7") opening.

 

[81 CB750K]

That retro head unit on eBay still requires a DIN (~2"x7") opening.

I guess you are right, I didn't think about those who don't want to modify their Vetter Sound unit at all. For those who don't mind, it would look cool.

 

[Larry Fine]

In my Rooster, I used a "mechless" head unit, the Alpine UTE-32, which has a short-enough chassis that the Alpine KTP-445U amp fit directly behind it.