'80 Suzuki GS Vetter mount question

[BobsSuziGS]

I bought an '80 Suzi GS 1000 mount on ebay. While it was complete it had no installation instructions. My mount is a different than normal type in that it has two side plates and two threaded tubes where the side plates mount to - these tubes both u bolt to the frame.
What I'm wondering about, is the way the bottom mount is mounted. To get the average rear 1 1/4" drop, my lower tube had to go "behind" the frame downtubes and not in front.

Is this correct?...looks like it, but I want to be sure.
Thanks for looking

 

[roncar]

No Suzuki/Vetter experience, but, IMHO, if the mount is not a one piece and welded, there is a reason. Such as one in front and one in back. If it mounts solid and looks right, that must be the way it was intended.

 

[Larry Fine]

In other words, there is a reason that particular mount disassembles: so you can get it through the bike's frame.

It's likely that the only difference between that one and other multi-piece mounts is the angle of the mounting surfaces.

Most WJ mounts are solidly-welded single pieces, which a quick Google-image or eBay search will make apparent.

Single-piece mounts are simply inserted behind the forks, either from below or from one side, and then clamped.

 

[Dave Ireland]

I hazard a guess the earlier ones like that shown above were too bike-specific and cost too much to manufacture.
The later ones were simpler, cheaper, and could fit a wider range of frames - I was surprised when I discovered my GS mount would fit my XJ9 frame almost perfectly, and even if it didn't, it's trivial to re-weld it slightly. I wonder how many other bikes the same basic bracket would fit - probably a lot of the 70s and 80s UJMs with twin downtubes at the same-ish angle and around that engine size.

 

[BobsSuziGS]

Got the fairing sitting on the mounted brackets today....need longer 5/16" x 2"w u bolts...around 2.5" to 3".
First thing I noted was that if the fairing was pulled far forward the front bolt holes lined up - but not the rear ones. They ran about middle of the bracket. I have to remember this bracket was made for a WJ and not drilled or set up for a WS fairing.
I moved the fairing back 1 3/4" and got a nice fit where the lower fork triple cover cleared the inner fairing and didn't hit up front on side lock...a half an inch more and I'd be hitting. Still had plenty of room on either side of the tank. I'll want to reroute the turn signal wires closer into the fairing or they rub alittle at this closer setting. Headlight position on fairing is 1" higher than oem/sans fairing...maybe lower the u bolts down a tad to bring her back down....1/2".
The fairing is definitely front heavy...front two bolts in only, finger snugged, and she lifts the back two holes by the tank.
I also noted that there are faint marks on the inner fairing mounting area where the PO had some sort of caps over the fairing plastic...I didn't get those, but I like the idea to more solidly mount the fairing and keep it from cracking there. Rubber isolation strip underneath to help with vibes....maybe top too, under that cap.

Now, the burning question.....is there an optimum spot, from the tank/frame where one mounts his WJ, or in my case WS, fairing....or is it just what fits/looks/clears right?!

 

[roncar]

Most of the info on Craig's site relates to the WJ. I would think the WS would be similar.
http://www.craigvetter.com/pages/Vetter_Fairings/Home-made-mounts.html

 

[Seth Matthews]

I have an 80 GS100G I'll get you pics