eBay score - Radio recommendations?

MN80CX500

Learning the Ropes
Joined
Jul 10, 2014
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Location
Minneapolis, MN
Just won this and am curious as to what is a good but economical head unit to get?
e4agu3a9.jpg
 
Depends on what you want out of it. Higher end, lower end? Cassette, Bluetooth, CD, Memory Stick? Also, sound quality, amplifiers come into play. So many choices with those. Looks like you got a good solid unit, its the larger speaker version I see. Shoot me your expectations and I will shoot you some direction. I am gonna relocate this to the Technical Cycle Sounds forum.
 
Am fm. Probably just an aux input or worst case a cassette I have an adapter for. Medium range I suppose at best. Thanks for the input!
 
UI have an Alpine UTE-32 head unit. AM/FM with USB and aux (1/8" stereo plug) inputs. No mechanism, which is why this type of head unit is called "mechless." I have a 32G thumb drive that stays in the socket.
 
The Alpine looks pretty cool. How much modding to make it fit a Cycle Sound with knob cut outs? Just Dremel it?
 
That's what I did on my Rooster. I had a 2-shaft radio plate as well as a blank, so I cut a DIN (approx. 2" x 7") opening in the blank plate. I have the 2-shaft plate (cut-out matches the Cycle Sound opening) as a spare.
 
How would you wire a mechless unit so you don't have to set the clock every time. Electrical is not my forte.
 
It just so happens that my particular stereo does not include a clock, but still has both switched (usually red) and un-switched (usually yellow) power wires, so the radio station presets remain in the memory.

I tapped power at the two ignition switch wires, one from the battery (always hot) and one back to the fuse block (switched). I also wired in a relay that kills the headlight when I operate the engine kill switch.

I used a generic 30-amp automotive relay to interrupt the ground wire to the headlight, which kills the headlight regardless of whether on low- or high-beam, and the high-beam light stays on as a reminder.

I can draw the wiring diagram for the headlight-kill function if anyone is interested, or for any other wiring. I've been into electronics and audio and doing automotive wiring since the days of 8-track stereos.
 
Okie-dokie. First, my Nighthawk came with an extension on the headlight wiring, which made this easier. It looked similar to this one:

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk276/Oldandslower/CIR-9102-2-1.jpg

I cut the ground wire, and connected the two ends to the N.O. contacts of the relay.

I connected one relay coil terminal to the bike's end of the cut wire, for its ground.

I connected the other coil wire to the wire between the kill switch and the ignition.

So, whenever the kill switch is off, the relay loses power and kills the headlight.

Diagram to follow.
 
You are all bad bad bad, cutting up your Cycle Sounds! There should be some sort of penalty for that.

Cycle Sound/ Vetter Sound Purist
--AVetterXS
 
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