Finished up my Cycle Sound Project.

Scott-E

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I got a Cycle Sound enclosure a while back and started working on it. I quickly came to the conclusion I did not want to put a DIN style radio in it. After looking at reviews of Marine waterproof DIN style radios on Amazon.com and the costs I tossed that idea. All I wanted was an FM Radio. My Satellite Radio has an FM Modulator. I also have a media player with an MP3 player. I ordered an FM Radio Module that features Digital signal processing, digital squelch, and PLL digital tuning that never drifts off frequency. It's powered by a simple USB port and came with a 3.5mm phone jack that would plug into my small audio amplifier. It's design would also simplify making it waterproof so I would not need a door on it. I made a face plate made from Lexan and black plastic sheet material. I also like the two dual function knobs on it that are easy to use with gloves. I have my satellite radio and GPS modulators both set to 88.1 Mhz. Lucky for me when the GPS gives turn directions it blanks out the Satellite radio so directions are loud and clear when I use the GPS unit. I keep the CB Radio separate. When I use it that's all I use and turn everything off except the GPS. Strange things happen to my Satellite radio and the FM radio when I transmit a signal with the CB radio. I'm sure I could make some power line filters that would stop that but if I'm using the CB radio I don't want the Satellite and FM radios playing anyway. Here's a couple of pictures of what it looks like now.

 
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Nice! I still need to figure out what I'm going to do with mine.
 

Scott-E

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Nice Scott! Looks like a bomb detonator. Cut the red wire!

What speakers did you end up using?
I removed the speakers from a set of Shark Motorcycle Audio Handlebar mounted speakers. They are 3" so they fit perfectly in my cycle sound enclosure. I made my own speaker grills. That red wire on the right side is a 3.5mm cable that connects to the headphone output jack to a small 20 watt per channel audio amplifier that also uses a 3.5mm jack for headphone power level audio input. The green cable on the left side is a Mini USB cable. It's plugged into a 12vdc USB power adaptor. That made it really easy to connect the DSP FM Radio to power and audio amplifier. Those FM Radio Modules are sold to people that like to make their own stuff, like me. I made it waterproof so it can handle being rained on without needing a door like a regular automotive radio would.
Here's a picture of the audio system I purchased several years ago before I obtained my Windjammer and later the cycle sound enclosure.
 

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I removed the speakers from a set of Shark Motorcycle Audio Handlebar mounted speakers. They are 3" so they fit perfectly in my cycle sound enclosure. I made my own speaker grills. That red wire on the right side is a 3.5mm cable that connects to the headphone output jack to a small 20 watt per channel audio amplifier that also uses a 3.5mm jack for headphone power level audio input. The green cable on the left side is a Mini USB cable. It's plugged into a 12vdc USB power adaptor. That made it really easy to connect the DSP FM Radio to power and audio amplifier. Those FM Radio Modules are sold to people that like to make their own stuff, like me. I made it waterproof so it can handle being rained on without needing a door like a regular automotive radio would.
Here's a picture of the audio system I purchased several years ago before I obtained my Windjammer and later the cycle sound enclosure.
How is the sound without the original speaker housings? I know they build those around housing specs. Do you notice much of a difference in loudness?
 

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How is the sound without the original speaker housings? I know they build those around housing specs. Do you notice much of a difference in loudness?
Mounting them in the cycle sound enclosure made them louder. The little housings they were originally mounted in I think were too small preventing the speaker cones from moving in and out fully. Those housing were designed to fit on the mirror mounts so the design was more for making them fit on the handlebar than providing the best and loudest sound. Those housing were also plastic with a chrome finish that was easily scratched. They had started looking kind of ratty so I didn't mind salvaging the speakers out of them.
 
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AVetterXS

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Mounting them in the cycle sound enclosure made them louder. The little housings they were originally mounted in I think were too small preventing the speaker cones from moving in and out fully. Those housing were designed to fit on the mirror mounts so the design was more for making them fit on the handlebar than providing the best and loudest sound. Those housing were also plastic with a chrome finish that was easily scratched. They had started looking kind of ratty so I didn't mind salvaging the speakers out of them.
Good to know, did you add any damping to the Cycle Sound? I know stock they had foam in them.
 

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Good to know, did you add any damping to the Cycle Sound? I know stock they had foam in them.
That foam was there to protect the radio and enclosure from vibration. It had nothing to do with an attempt to improve audio reproduction. When I got my enclosure that foam was rotten due to age so I removed it. I didn’t replace it because I was not going to install an automotive type radio in it.

To be honest no one expects to have theatre sound quality in a sound system for a Motorcycle. You've got all the noise coming at you from your own bike, other vehicles and other noise producing stuff like aircraft and industrial areas. All you really need is a system that can overcome those external noise systems and allow you to enjoy the audio of your choice without too much distortion. Technically a little fibreglass insulation inside the enclosure would provide a slight improvement in audio quality but it would reduce the audio volume slightly. Not only that because cycle sound enclosures are not perfectly sealed moisture would collect in that insulation which would cause all sorts of problems with any electronics and fibres would find a way out and end up on the operator and passenger.
 

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That foam was there to protect the radio and enclosure from vibration. It had nothing to do with an attempt to improve audio reproduction. When I got my enclosure that foam was rotten due to age so I removed it. I didn’t replace it because I was not going to install an automotive type radio in it.

To be honest no one expects to have theatre sound quality in a sound system for a Motorcycle. You've got all the noise coming at you from your own bike, other vehicles and other noise producing stuff like aircraft and industrial areas. All you really need is a system that can overcome those external noise systems and allow you to enjoy the audio of your choice without too much distortion. Technically a little fibreglass insulation inside the enclosure would provide a slight improvement in audio quality but it would reduce the audio volume slightly. Not only that because cycle sound enclosures are not perfectly sealed moisture would collect in that insulation which would cause all sorts of problems with any electronics and fibres would find a way out and end up on the operator and passenger.
Good to know, being audio crazy myself I look at every last little thing I can do to make the experience better. I used a dampening spray called Boom Mat ( https://www.amazon.com/DEI-050220-Boom-Mat-Spray-on/dp/B001URKV0G ) when I put mine together. It made the unit a little more solid feeling, not so hollow when you knocked on it. I put 3 coats on it. Soundwise, I don't think it made a difference, but mentally it made me feel much better knowing I had a .03% gain in audio performance.

:banghead
 
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If you want a good, real-power amplifier, check out the Alpine KTP-445U. 4 x 45w or 2 x 90w.

it made me feel much better knowing I had a .03% gain in audio performance.
. . . as well as a .03% reduction in enclosure volume. :D
 

Scott-E

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I'm happy the the 20 X 2 watt amplifier that I got with the speakers as a package. It's loud enough and it only draws about 2 amps at full volume. The Stator output on my bike is 340 watts so I've got to be careful about how much I load the electrical system.